Journey through London

I managed to see some wonderful architecture yestyrday as I wondered both above and below London. I'm finally getting comfortable with being in an urban environment. Its always been a bit nerve racking traveling in cities because of the vast amounts of people, the feeling of being a pesky toursit that doesn't belong, and the fear of getting robbed. But after travel over a dozen times on the tube and even being asked directions, I've become much more at ease. Suddenly where fear once lingered, courage and confidence has taken its place. There was a huge difference between arriving at Charles De Gaule on my first day in Europe -antsy, frantic, and scared - and arriving in St. Pancras just yesterday - calm, collected, and confident. I've been able to change tubes, buy my own oyster card (like a metro card, for the tubes), and walk around the city taking pictures without feeling out of place. I even was able to manage all of my bags through the city with little trouble (the only trouble was from my backpack taking up so much space behind me - I often had to put it between my feet on crowed tubes). Did I mention how crowded the tube has been? On at least half of my trips, I haven't been able to even turn in a circle its been so crowded.

I took another 408 pictures yesterday, for a grand total of over 1800 pictures. Already. And I haven't even arrived in Switzerland yet...oh well. I've had a blast taking them. Yesterday I captured at least 6 Wren churches, Swiss Re by Foster, Lloyd's by Rogers, City Hall (Foster again), Millennium Bridge (Calatrava), and the Globe Theatre to name a few. All the walking has left my feet very sore, but it's been worth every ache.

Last night I had my first couchsurfing experience. It was a blast meeting my host, Ali, and many of his artists friends and counterculture companions. Most excitingly/differently (and probably what boosted my confidence most) was going to Shunt, an underground art gallery/performance space/gay hang out/bar among the supporting structure of London Bridge Station. What a rush! It was the most amazing space/set of spaces, with each space between the brick structure filled with abstract sculptures, installations, projected movies, paintings, and pictures. I met a very attractive younger man my age who was a trapeze artist and circus teacher who had spent some time in San Fran teaching at a local circus school. In the back was a bar hosted by a glorious group of friendly Londoners where I met one of the organizers of the space who had a movie displaying among on of the more intimate and enclosed alcoves. It was a deeply moving film that seemed to bring to life a series of photographs from the holocaust paired with journal entries of people from the time. The way the film was shot - as a light being shined and slowly moved over the surface of picture collages - gave the images life, making you feel in touch with the loss shown on people's faces and on collapsed buildings. Very moving.

After leaving Shunt, I traveled with Ali on the Overground (a train connecting through the suburbs) to his beautiful home in South Norwood, about 20-30 minutes south of the city. He showed me his lovely garden, cooked a delicious dinner, and shared some wonderful concersation. Though I enjoyed stayin g with Ali very much, I'm rooming with one of my uncle's friends for the next two nights beause her flat is a bit closer to town & a lot closer to Hethrowe where I fly out of Sunday Morning.

Today has been a little lazy since my jet lag just seet in. I was doing so well until around 10:30 when my head went all fuzy. But I did manage to get a cell phone finally! For £20 (courtesy of my uncle, Charles. Thanks again!) we were able to find a nice phone that works very well (and comes with £10 of free credit). The number is: 00 44 7502 1123 70.

Overall, London has been a much dofferent experience than Paris, and just one look at the sky line could make that clear. Unlike Paris - uniform building heights and widths, a classic french baroque style throughout, and a planned axial boulevard pattern that frames views and guides people in an almost militaristic way - London is mcuh more elclectic - varied building hieghts, styles, ages, a muddled web of person-scaled alleys, and a feeling of personal liberation of self-expression. Unlike Paris that seems to make one feel uniform (one reason why stopping to take a picture feels more out-of-place), London's variety, though a bit muddled, expresses a variety of ideas from a span of peoples, places and times. Instead of replacing old buildings destroyed by WW2 like in Paris, London allowed new architectural icons to take over the cities infastructure and take over the skyline. Part of me would like to see more of the original historic infastructure have more leverage, but the other part of me enjoys the craziness.

Pictures of London are still being uploaded, so keep your eyes peeled for those and take a look at some of the Paris Pics.

Ciao!